Smoke Procession in Arnedillo

One of the most significant religious and popular festivities in the Rioja town of Arnedillo is the Procession of Smoke in Arnedillo, in honour of Saint Andrew. We invite you to discover this great popular festival.

At the end of November, locals and visitors alike come to Arnedillo for one of the most unique festive and religious experiences in Spain.

It is a small and welcoming town located in the Arnedo region, with a population of around 500 inhabitants. It is widely known for its hot springs, and there are even remains of dinosaur footprints in the area.

What does the Procession of Smoke consist of?

The Procession of Smoke in Arnedillo is a festival that has been held every last Sunday in November in the Rioja town of Arnedillo since 1888. This great celebration is organised by the Brotherhood of San Andrés and was declared a Festival of Regional Tourist Interest in 2013.

Every year the residents of Arnedillo prepare bonfires for the procession and walk through the streets, enveloped in smoke, venerating San Andrés, from the hermitage to the town's church.

How is this Smoke Festival celebrated?

The locals light bonfires beforehand to burn various aromatic plants (gorse, rosemary, thyme and brojo), dampening the fire and shaking branches until a thick smoke fills the whole village.

This action signals the start of the procession of the image of San Andrés, patron saint of Arnedillo. The smoke is so thick that it is difficult to see and breathe. Nevertheless, the procession is led by the Brotherhood of San Andrés, accompanied by the faithful and visitors.

The procession departs from the hermitage of Arnedillo, following the route through steep and narrow streets. It ends at the church of this picturesque village.

At the end of the procession, a mass is held, after which the image of the saint is returned to the hermitage. An auction of blessed donuts, bunches of apples and sweets is held as part of the tradition.

Origins of the celebration of the Smoke Procession in Arnedillo

The Arnedillo Smoke Procession originated in 1888, when the town was affected by an epidemic of black pox, which caused a great deal of death and devastation in the village.

In order to counteract this scourge, the people of Arnedillo applied a measure based on popular wisdom and devout faith. They lit bonfires in the streets, using plants with medicinal properties, in order to purify the air. Other faithful of the Catholic religion placed candles to the saints they venerated, saying prayers.

They also walked St. Andrew through the streets impregnated with smoke from the bonfires. Miraculously the illness dissipated and the locals attributed the miracle to Saint Andrew and the smoke. Since then, every last Sunday in November a procession is held and bonfires are lit in honour of this saint.

Curiosities of the Procession of Smoke in Arnedillo

Find out some curious and interesting facts about the Procession of Smoke in Arnedillo:

• According to tradition, those people who pass through the smoke that circulates in the streets during this festivity are protected from flu and colds, throughout the winter.
• During the procession, visibility becomes difficult due to the smoke from the bonfires, causing silhouettes to appear behind the dense smoke.

Recommendations for visitors

If you want to make the most of these festivities, here are some recommendations and practical tips:

• Wear comfortable clothes and footwear.
• This festivity is not recommended for people with respiratory problems or allergies. It is advisable to take precautions with children.
• The town has several hiking routes that can be done in the area.

What else can you see or do in the town if you go to La Rioja?

Arnedillo is a small town, and its natural surroundings are well worth a visit. There are signposted hiking routes, such as the Pozas de Arnedillo (Arnedillo Pools) or the El Barranco Perdido Paleoadventure Park.

We also invite you to discover some of the historical and cultural sites in La Rioja:

• Cathedral of Santo Domingo de la Calzada: it is a pilgrimage church with a Gothic style, whose construction began in 1158.
• Hermitage of Santa María de La Piscina: it was erected in 1136. Inside it preserves the remains of mural paintings linked to the foundation of this church. Next to the church there are some anthropomorphic tombs excavated in the rock.
• Monasteries of Yuso and Suso: they are located in the village of San Millán de la Cogolla and have been listed as World Heritage Sites. They were built in the 6th and 11th centuries, respectively.
• Museum of La Rioja: It is a Baroque building built in the 18th century. It has a total surface area of 3,042 m². It includes a library and a temporary exhibition room, with exhibition material related to the archaeological and Fine Arts collections from the Middle Ages, the
• Renaissance and the Baroque.

Riojan gastronomy

Here are some typical and traditional dishes from La Rioja:

• Vegetable stew: prepared with artichokes, cardoon and borage, among other ingredients.
• Lamb cutlets: prepared roasted, with the dried vine shoots of the Rioja vines.
• Bacalao a la Riojana: this is a dish of stewed cod, served with a sauce prepared with peppers and tomatoes.
• Patitas de cordero a la Riojana: made with lamb's trotters, bacon, chorizo sausage, tomato sauce and Rioja alegrías.
• Caparrones a la Riojana: prepared with a variety of red beans and chorizo sausage.
• Patatas a la Riojana: this is a spoon dish, prepared with potatoes, chorizo sausage and red pepper.

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